"I have another burner, try to guess it!" (ihaveanotherburner)
05/22/2018 at 11:30 • Filed to: None
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"I have another burner, try to guess it!" (ihaveanotherburner)
05/22/2018 at 11:30 • Filed to: None | 0
| 22 |
If you didn’t read my last post. Basically, I need to replace the rear shocks on my Volvo. The suspension is quite stiff so I was looking into swapping it to the springs and shocks from one of the softer setups (I haven’t confirmed it, but I’m 90% confident it has the stiffest. Its literally the stiffest non-modified car I’ve ever ridden in)
However it was looking like it’s going to be pretty pricy getting 4 springs and shocks, even used. However I then thought about the anti-roll bar. I haven’t checked used prices, but I’d imagine it’d be cheaper than springs and shocks. Plus if I wanna be lazy and cheap I could just do the front and keep the rear stiff for those maaaaad skids lad.
Anyway. I checked the Volvo parts catalogue and theres 5-6 different front bars, and then two style of rear bar. One style has 4 different types while the other is just one. Which isn’t really important, I just thought it was interesting Volvo went through the trouble of making so many different suspension setups for their entry level car. This was also specifically for the FWD T5, so that’s not even counting the AWD models. (I’m pretty sure the suspension is the same on the turbo and non turbo models.)
Kind of crazy you could create over 1,000 different suspension setups with factory parts, if you mixed and matched. 3 (front shock combos) X 3 (front spring combos) X 5 (front bar combos) X 3 X 3 (rear spring/shock) X 4 (rear bar) = 1,620
Also in case you wanted a first hand glimpse of the madness I’m talking about.
Volvo’s own website is even more confusing.
Should I get the “SPORT. EFFICENCY. COMFORT” bar or the “SPORT. EFFICENCY. DYNAMIC. COMFORT” bar? :)
HammerheadFistpunch
> I have another burner, try to guess it!
05/22/2018 at 11:36 |
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I can’t offer up much except by way of personal experience. If I completely disconnect my beefy front sway bar my front compliance is improved, but its not night and day. That being said Im oversprung up front so that probably matters a little.
AfromanGTO
> I have another burner, try to guess it!
05/22/2018 at 11:39 |
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I put a huge one in the rear of one of my old cars, and it was a blast in turns. There was no real change in ride quality. Get the sway bars now!
facw
> I have another burner, try to guess it!
05/22/2018 at 11:41 |
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Obviously you should get this one for the back because it’s blue, so it must be good: https://www.ipdusa.com/products/4894/110419-anti-sway-bar-kit-p1-s40-v50-c30-c70-models
sony1492
> I have another burner, try to guess it!
05/22/2018 at 11:47 |
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I’ve got no front sway bar currently, the difference isn’t huge but it’s there. The car gets less unsettled over bumps, but I’m on coilovers too. I think changing the sway bar for comfort will be a case of diminished returns.
JQJ213- Now With An Extra Cylinder!
> I have another burner, try to guess it!
05/22/2018 at 11:47 |
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Dunno if it’ll help you, I had an 08 C30 T5. I have the original springs (mine was a version 1.0 so it wasn’t the sport suspension) only have 40k miles or so on em. Were fine. I just ended up lowering it.
Highlander-Datsuns are Forever
> I have another burner, try to guess it!
05/22/2018 at 11:48 |
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They will affect ride quality a little but not nearly as much as going to a softer spring. I would think sway bar is like 10% of your ride stiffness and shocks and springs are the rest.
Smallbear wants a modern Syclone, local Maple Leafs spammer
> I have another burner, try to guess it!
05/22/2018 at 12:01 |
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I added a rear bar to my truck. It made a noticeable difference through the bends, but was more unsettled and squirmy over bumps. In saying that, it’s still predictable under those conditions... perhaps more so.
CobraJoe
> I have another burner, try to guess it!
05/22/2018 at 12:01 |
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If I remember right, the front sway bar is extremely annoying to replace on those.
vicali
> I have another burner, try to guess it!
05/22/2018 at 12:01 |
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Spring rates will have more affect. In my mk2 and mk3 Jettas I would put cupkits and big RSB on and they were always a blast in corners. With the largest RSB on the car got a little dicey when there was snow on the road with all seasons.
DipodomysDeserti
> I have another burner, try to guess it!
05/22/2018 at 12:06 |
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Swaybars affect handling more than they do ride quality. Changing them can have a pretty profound affect on handling, so careful when you swap them out. I put a bit stiffer rear swaybar on my WRX back in the day, and accidently drifted through a corner on a public road on the first test drive.
e36Jeff now drives a ZHP
> I have another burner, try to guess it!
05/22/2018 at 12:13 |
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if the springs and/or dampers are already pretty stiff, it won’t make a ton of difference. If they aren’t, and especially if the bar is rather beefy, it should make a very noticeable difference.
Sovande
> JQJ213- Now With An Extra Cylinder!
05/22/2018 at 12:14 |
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Different spring rates between the two cars, unfortunately. I have my stock springs too, but they won’t work.
TahoeSTi
> I have another burner, try to guess it!
05/22/2018 at 12:19 |
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On uneven surfaces sway bars can ruin ride quality. I would suggest finding and adjustable setup for your car and figure out which setting you like best.
Swaybars should be considered band aids and tuning devices not an upgrade. Basically with a really stiff sway bar you are forcing both sides to act as one as you go stiffer you slowly lose Independence of each wheel. To many people use sway bars when they should be upgrading their springs.
Most the time people are putting in larger sway bars to compensate for progress rate springs. It’s better to run specific rate springs and a smaller sway bar for best handling and ride quality.
In your case though since handling isn’t your primary goal you might want to find some nice progressive rate springs and an adjustable sway bar.....also if it’s really rough check to make sure you’re not riding on your bump stops some times shortening them can really help ride quality.
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Sovande
> I have another burner, try to guess it!
05/22/2018 at 12:22 |
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Leave the stock front bar and upgrade to a big honking rear bar. Before you order one, look under the car and see what kind of links you have - horizontal or vertical - and order the bar accordingly. The other option is to swap the crappy horizontal style (looks like a bolt with bushings on the top and bottom) to the better vertical style (looks like 90* angle). Elevate, IPD and a bunch of Mazda parts will fit. I have a 29mm Corksport bar for a Mazda. A bigger rear bar will help with the understeer tendency of the car and make it feel more neutral. It will also flatten it out in the corners.
I bet a lot of your suspension dislike is simply worn shocks and struts. I would guess these are a 100k time at most. How is your tire wear? Scalloping, uneven wear, etc? If so it could be related to the shocks and struts.
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Sovande
> I have another burner, try to guess it!
05/22/2018 at 12:25 |
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Like I mentioned before, you can swap the rear shocks out with a 10mm socket and a long extension, and a 15mm socket for the bottom end of the shock. It will take about 30 minutes if you go slow. Look at FCP Euro, they have good prices and an amazing warranty on everything they sell.
TFSIVTEC drivesavolvo
> I have another burner, try to guess it!
05/22/2018 at 12:40 |
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Fellow T5 owner, I feel your pain with the suspension options. I went crazy a year ago just trying to repace what I had factory. What even is this “Dynamic”? Also if you want a more soft ride I’d start with comfort springs in the front.
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I have another burner, try to guess it!
> TahoeSTi
05/22/2018 at 13:10 |
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I’ll probably start off with the front bar then. One thing I’ve noticed is on uneven surfaces, it seems to loose a lot of traction. Taking off from a stop light where the road has a lot of camber and traction control kicks in very early. I’ll see if what the roll bar does, and then see if I wanna do springs.
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I have another burner, try to guess it!
> Sovande
05/22/2018 at 13:15 |
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I havent seen any unusual tire wear, but your right I should probably replace the shocks first and see what that does.
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Highlander-Datsuns are Forever
> TahoeSTi
05/22/2018 at 13:23 |
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This is an excellent explanation. I was trying to write something similar but I couldn’t find the words.
If only EssExTee could be so grossly incandescent
> I have another burner, try to guess it!
05/22/2018 at 13:26 |
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Roll bars link opposite sides of the suspension so a softer bar will let the left and right move more independently and give better ride isolation. You’ll have a better ride over rough roads.
A softer bar will also make the grip let go more gradually. If a stiff bar is “grip, grip, grip, NO GRIP!” then a soft bar is more like a whole gradient of traction.
E92M3
> I have another burner, try to guess it!
05/22/2018 at 13:48 |
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Sway bars do not affect ride comfort much at all, except when both wheels go over the same object. For example if you hit a pot hole with one wheel, you won’t notice any difference. If you go over a train track though it will feel A LOT stiffer if you went with a larger diameter swaybar. If you went with a smaller swaybar it would feel softer.
On rough pavement tracks a lot of guys will remove their swaybars and go with really stiff springs because it offers more compliance and traction.
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Sovande
> I have another burner, try to guess it!
05/22/2018 at 14:18 |
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Get the rear shocks, any rear shocks, and I would bet you will be happier. You can find Bilsteins for like $100 a pair. Or go crazy and get the Sachs for $120. Here is guide to changing them complete with pics.
https://blog.fcpeuro.com/how-to-replace-rear-shocks-on-a-p1-volvo-c30-v50-c70-s40
https://www.fcpeuro.com/Volvo-parts/S40/Shock-and-Struts/?page=2&year=2009&m=213&e=2105